What is the greatest paradox of becoming wealthy?
Wealth is relative. At this point, I
have a good income, but I
wouldn’t really consider myself
wealthy. Still, there is no denying
that I am much better off
financially than I was in my
younger days.
The biggest thing that has
changed is my relationship to
food. As a poor person, my
main concern was maximizing
my caloric intake while
minimizing how much money I
spent. My priority was keeping
myself adequately nourished. If
a cut of salmon filet cost $10
per pound, then I just wouldn’t
be eating any salmon. I would
classify it as “rich people food”
and move on. And when I saw
restaurants where some plates
cost $30 or more, often for a
tiny amount of food, it seemed
like the height of folly that any-
one could pay for such a thing.
Where was the rest of the food?
And didn’t people realize that
they could get a lot more food
for a lot less money?
But now, when it comes to food,
affordability is not something I
even think about. I’m rich
enough to afford anything I
want to eat. You don’t need to
be very rich for that, but it’s a
huge change in my circum-
stances. Even as recently as a
year ago, I had to think about
the cost of every cut of meat
that I wanted to buy. Now, the
only question I need to ask is
whether I want it.
It turns out that this is a great way
to gain weight. And after gaining
about a pound a month for 6
straight months, I started to
change the way I thought about
eating. I had to unlearn my life-
long habits. I started to prize
taste over quantity. I started learn
-ing to throw food away when I
had eaten enough. And I started
to appreciate small plates at fine
dining restaurants. My priority
had become not overeating.
And today, I am happy to pay for
tiny portions. I don’t need the
extra calories.
Some people are wondering why
I throw away food, rather than
saving it for another time. The
answer is that I don’t throw away
all food; it’s just that I used to
never throw away anything. So, if
I forgot to refrigerate my rice and
left it out for more than 24 hours,
I would just eat it. Now, the risk of
food poisoning with B. cereus is a
higher consideration than the
wasted food.
Another thing I’ll do sometimes is
try something that comes in a
pretty package. I just opened this
10 minutes ago:
It seemed like a good idea at the
time. But, in truth, it tastes like
the monstrosity it is. Am I going
to save it? No. I detest the taste.
I don’t need the calories. And I
can’t cook with it or do anything
else. It’s going into the trash.
One of the great things about really good food is that when it’s made right, you don’t need a lot of it to feel satisfied.
This came home to me last night when I decided to follow a recipe I’d know for years: Thomas Keller’s recipe for Maine Lobster Rolls, from his book Ad Hoc.
The recipe involves mixing lobster flesh with mayonnaise, chopped red onion, lime juice, celery and herbs, and putting the resulting salad into hot dog buns that have been browned on the sides in butter.
Over a year ago, my ex-wife gave me a frozen lobster as a quasi-ironic birthday present and it had been sitting in my freezer ever since. Yesterday I decided to eat it, so I thawed it out and rather inexpertly extracted the meat from it.
Here’s the kicker: I decided to be like Thomas Keller and make the mayonnaise, using Keller’s own recipe.
I don’t even really like mayonnaise, but no way was I going to insult Thomas Keller by using Hellman’s. And I hadn’t made my own mayonnaise in years.
Whisk egg yolks with drop after drop of canola oil. Add lemon juice and salt. This took an hour, especially after I messed up and caused it to curdle, forcing me to start all over again, adding the curdled egg and oil soup drop by drop to a new egg yolk.
But I got there in the end. The result was completely unlike Hellman’s or any other shop-bought mayonnaise: yellow, glossy, slightly lemony and luxurious, not a claggy, vinegary glop.
I had enough to adorn two small hot dog rolls, with my entirely homemade lobster salad. It looked, on the plate, like a very modest dinner.
It was freaking delicious. I thought I was going to want to eat something else as well. I didn’t.
It was like all the good meals I’ve had in good restaurants: deceptively satisfying. Having finished the last morsel, I was done.
That’s the secret of those ‘fine dining’ restaurants: they know how to feed you until you’ve had enough without loading your plate with food.
Wow, you make me want to try it!
Hubby and I might be doing a Napa Valley tour next spring. Prolly staying in Yountville. One of Keller’s restos there might be just the right venue to negotiate a polyandry-nup :-P
I’ve got every one of Keller’s recipe books (and have entertained often with his recipes). And have eaten at Per Se in New York. I have no problem spending that amount of time (or money) to experience fantastic cuisine. Absolutely worth it!
I have never eaten in any of his restaurants and never expect to, but I love his books and his general helpful approach. He really, really knows what he’s talking about.
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