EXPERIENCE Vanuatu , Nanda's Blue Hole

 EXPERIENCE 

Our Land and Sea 

FOREVER 

In Vanuatu, new cultural programming led by Indigenous Women is paving a more sustainable future for tourism. Story and photographs by Jonny Bierman 

WHILE NEIGHBOURING South Pacific nations have long captured travellers' attention, Vanuatu offers an alternative for those seeking fiery volcanic landscapes, pearl-hued beaches, aquamarine blue holes, and unparalleled scuba-diving adventures alongside WWII-era shipwrecks. And it's the efforts of the Ni-Vanuatu people, particularly Indigenous women leading tourism and preservation, that give this archipelago-whose name means "our land forever"in Melanesian languages — its edge as a deeply authentic cultural destination. Here, lived traditions offer heartfelt invitations into a raw and rugged way of life untouched by time. 

Since gaining independence 45 years ago, the Ni-Vanuatu people have embraced a future centred on their past. Cultural pride radiates through every story, song, and shared meal, creating an environment where visitors feel like guests, not outsiders. This unshakable bond to their land and water weaves sustainability and tradition into all aspects of life, inviting travellers to experience the beauty of Vanuatu, and get a glimpse of its soul, as seen through the strength of its South Pacific islanders. 

On Santo Island, this connection becomes personal, as I'm drawn to the island's many natural blue holes. These naturally occurring, freshwater swimming holes have vibrant, electric-blue water, formed by rainwater from volcanic mountains seeping underground and resurfacing through limestone as crystal-clear springs. My PADI dive resort, Turtle Bay Lodge (turtlebaylodge.vu; doubles from US$135), has connections to several blue holes in the region. 

EXPERIENCES 

At Nanda's Blue Hole, visitor experiences of this natural phenomenon are amplified through new cultural programming by the ancestral landowners, Marie Melteck and her mother, Suzie Wells. Melteck's journey began with a trip to New Zealand sponsored by the NZ Māori Tourism board and New Zealand government. It was here that she first witnessed how the collective power of Indigenous Peoples could transform thein communities through sustainable tourism. 

The trip opened her eyes to the untapped potential of her own homeland and inspired her to weave ancestral traditions into sustainable, modern travel experiences. While savouring homemade laplap, a traditional dish crafted from ingredients we foraged with Marie, she reflects on her story: "I was so caught up in a Western way of thinking that I almost forgot the treasures right here on my own land. For the longest time, I doubted whether visitors would want to experience our local food and traditions. But after my trip to New Zealand, I realised the beautv and value of what we have. I was a wake-up call-I started to see that there are people who genuinely want to connect with our culture and taste the authenticity of our way of life." 

Marie's rediscovery is at the heart of her business. She collaborates with nearby villages, weaving the community into her work by sourcing fresh produce and handcrafted items like woven baskets and natural soaps from local artisans. After our kava ceremony, laplap, and a refreshing swim in the blue hole, she invites the renowned Vanuatu  Water Dancers to perform in the blue hole. It's extraordinary. Standing waist-deep in the crystal clear waters, the women create hypnotic rhythms with their hands and bodies, each slap, swirl, and plunge echoing stories of their heritage. Dressed in vibrant, traditional garb, they fuse the sounds of water with hauntingly beautiful songs in the Mwerlap language. It's a profound connection to Vanuatu's history and identity, making the moment unforgettable. 

FROM SANTO'S sugar-soft shores, the storytelling continues underwater. Diving with Yvanna Kassao, one of only two Ni-Vanuatu women PADI instructors in Vanuatu, ever, I explore vibrant marine ecosystems steeped in history. At dive sites like Million Dollar Point and the SS President Coolidge, WWII relics rest as stunning artificial reefs, teeming with marine life, while the untouched reefs around Turtle Bay Lodge offer endless discoveries. 

Yvanna speaks passionately about introducing visitors to a world most have never witnessed — a realm completely transformed from life above the surface. Her own transformation from head of housekeeping at the lodge to dive instructor reflects the resilience she hopes to instil in other women, particularly as a single mother who refused to let circumstances limit her aspirations."The ocean teaches us about change," she explains, noting how diving reveals the delicate shifts in coral health that mirror our impact on the environment above.» 

Clockwise from top left: Children of the Black Magic Tour on Tanna Island; Mount Yasur, Tanna Island; a Ni-Vanuatu man creating fire. Opposite from top: The author's spouse wreck diving at Million Dollar Point;a dive briefing with Indigenous Ni-Vanuatu PADI instructor Cathy Savei.